I'm writing this post from Fort Lauderdale, Florida. It's been a while since my last posting. See the Oct. 1st posting on my DC area visit which I've just gotten around to publishing. Let me begin by explaining that since last Tuesday evening I've taken a break from riding and have rented a car. I needed to do this to attend the American Studies Association conference in Philadelphia this past weekend. I've taken advantage of having a car to make some important side trips to 1) Dudley, N. Carolina to visit FLOC offices (the Farm Labor Organizing Committee); 2) Hazleton, PA; 3) St. Augustine, FLA, and; 4) Miami, FLA. I will update you on these visits later, but the reason I've come down here is so that when I resume riding on Wednesday evening from Savannah, GA I can go south to Jacksonville and then begin traveling west across the country.
By now I have passed the halfway mark of my trip and though I have miles and miles to go, even now I feel like I am on the way home. I suspect I will feel this even more strongly when I begin heading west. I've no doubt that seeing family and friends in Tejas will renew me even more--as having seen so many dear friends along the East coast has. At the end of this post I am going to share some beautiful quotes send to me by a friend that, along with so many other supportive sentiments that have been communicated to me, have helped me keep perspective.
I left the DC area and made it only as far as Fredericksburg, VA. There, as I was looking for lodging, I asked two guys who had just finished a jog for directions and after a brief conversation, I learned one of them was a U of Minn. grad. He didn't say much but his friend was very interested in my trip. I ended up having to go a little further down the road to Spotsylvania to get mid-range lodging. The next day I only got as far as Richmond when I began having a series of rear tire flats. I was a bit chagrined as I had only had minimal tire trouble since leaving Minnesota. Virginia was beautiful and Hwy 1 was comprised of a series of long, winding hills. At times I was able to manage these quite well, particularly when they were spaced in such a way as to keep my momentum. But I was feeling a bit inefficient at times as my chain seemed to be rubbing and my gears slipped from time to time in a way that recalled my difficulties in Wyoming. I changed my tube out 3 times and decided I should find a shop to see what was going on. I was concerned about being delayed as I had agreed to be in Monroe, NC the following Monday and my timing was being endangered.

Some pics of VirginiaIt was too late to find a repair shop open so I tried to make my ways towards hotels near the airport so I could rent a car if necessary. My tire went flat again and I ended up having to walk the last 4 miles. The next morning I called a couple of bike shops in the area and none could see me right away. I decided to take a car to Raleigh, NC, the next big city up the road, where I would have more choices. I arrived in the afternoon and went to the All Star Cycle shop and the guys there were great about prioritizing repairs on my bike given the trip I was on. Even before I'd told them details of my trip they began rattling off the many things that needed repair. They could only work on it until the end of the day as they had commitment the next day so we agreed that they would replace the derailer, the rear tire, and repair my rear wheel spokes. But they told me that I also needed to replace the chain and the rear drive train as well as the brakes.
When I picked up the bike the next day, I was amazed at the vast improvement! It felt like a new bike. I hadn't realized how much I had gotten used to the slow build up of problems. Riding was so much easier: smoother, faster, stronger. I spent the next few days making my way to Charlotte--camping a couple of nights in the NC foothills. The roads were as hilly as Virginia but the riding was definitely a lot easier. I've since replaced the chain, the rear drive, and the brakes. I have to pause and give props to the quality service I've received at bike shops, beginning with Erik's in Minneapolis. The folks at shops are usually bikers and are eager to hear about long trips and to share their own experiences. Both in Raleigh and in Cherry Hill, NJ where I had the latest work done, the owners were there and shared their own cross-country trips with me. Both told m that they made the ride with their spouse a long time ago. At Elkton's in Cherry Hill, the guy told me that they biked a lot at night to beat the heat and that farmers accommodated them if they knocked on their doors and promised to leave the place cleaner than when they arrived.
Below are some pictures from my ride across North Carolina. The heat and humidity were out in force, but I find that easier to embrace than the cold. I was particularly struck by the skies of N. Carolina.







On Sunday, Sherry Edwards, the teacher at Piedmont High School in Monroe, took me to visit her friends Magda and Rocky in the Hickory area of Western, NC.
That night, I slept in Monroe and prepared my presentation for the students at Piedmont the next afternoon. As we drove towards Hickory, Sherry pointed out this chain of food stores to me in western N. Carolina and we mused on the name (pronounced een-gulls, not like the Spanish word) and the special effort the store owners made to note on signs that the store was American owned.



Rocky, Isabel, Emilio, and Magda. Rocky and Hannah. Magda is Colombian American Born in Colombia, she and her brothers and mother moved here to reunite with her father after he had been here in N. Carolina a few years working on farms and as a horse trainer, an expertise he brought with him and cultivated into a highly successful family enterprise over the years. She is currently a high school Spanish teacher and continues to help with the family business, breeding the sophisticated Paso Fino horses, training riders and selling a rare and sophisticated breed of show horses that has earned them international acclaim. Their children are being raised bilingually, something the parents want and the grandparents insist upon. Rocky is Native American and Scotch-Irish from Northern Michigan. Magda shared her family's history of moving to the US and their early struggles adapting to a new country, language, culture, and society. Magda noted that when she was young there was only a small handful of Latinos in the Hickory-Conover-Newton area of N. Carolina and in the state at large. This demographic has changed dramatically, though she also noted that most white N. Carolinans don't bother to learn the distinctiveness of each Latino group and they tend to all be perceived the same way--for better or worse. Rocky said that given his own background and the region of the country he grew up, marrying a Latina was not an issue for his family. Magda relayed a instance within the past few years in which Rocky took a day off of work to participate in a sit-in held on behalf of Latinos when local tensions about new immigrants began to emerge. Our conversation was much more wide-ranging, but as with all these interviews I can only offer a few highlights.
At one point, as Hannah was about to leave I did ask her about race relations in school. She attends a suburban school that includes youth from the larger cities as well as youth from the rural areas. In her very strong opinion some tensions do exist because some of the rural youth bring in attitudes about race taught to them by their parents and this manifests itself in "old-fashioned" ideas about race, race-mixing, and being bi-racial. She places herself in that latter category and clearly claims both her parents cultural heritages. Her strong and vocal personality makes her a good advocate for the new south as she appears ready and able to challenge her peers.
Here's some background on Magda's dad and the family legacy from their website:
The story of Startown Stables, Inc. Began over 50 years ago in Tarqui, a small town in Colombia, South America. It was in Tarqui, that Luis Carlos Iriarte, a respected Paso Fino breeder and trainer, instilled into his only son a love for the Paso Fino horse. As a young boy, Alvaro Iriarte became the fourth generation in his family to breed, train, judge and show Paso Fino horses. While in school, Alvaro learned more about the United States and vowed that one day he would come to America and become a citizen. Alvaro tenaciously pursued his dream by coming to the United States at age 35 and in 1979 becoming a United States citizen. He has been just as tenacious in his commitment to the Paso Fino breed.
As a judge for over 30 years, Alvaro Iriarte has gained respect for his knowledge and integrity. He is a Senior Certified judge with both the PFHA and USA-E and has judged both the Grand National Championship Show and the World Cup Championship. In 1992, Alvaro was recognized by his peers at the Grand National Championship Show as Trainer of the Year. From his insistence on a solid foundation to the polish of advanced training, his commitment to horses entrusted to his training is evident. His reputation for excellence in breeding is well-known throughout the United States, Latin America and Europe. (http://www.startownstables.com/aboutus.htm)




Pics from my well-received visit to Piedmont High School in Unionville, NC. On Monday morning I rode the 10 miles from Monroe to Piedmont High School in Unionville. Staff at the school were expecting me as a front page story about my visit had run in the Monroe Inquire-Journal the day before. Since I arrived early, Ms. Edwards asked if I could visit the tail end of the mid-day class since they were a bit envious of the other class. I gave them some abbreviated background on my trip and took their questions. Both here and in the larger presentation in the library, which included two classes of about 65 students and some administrators, staff, and teachers, the questions were quite good. Sometimes amusing but always relevant whether focused on the ride itself, the people I met or experiences I was having. They were interested, invested, and appeared to be engaged with the issues I was raising. They seemed especially pleased that they were the first high school I'd visited on my trip. One young woman asked if my ride was like Che Guevara's. I complimented her on knowing this history and told her that a friend of mine has recently learned of a cross-country ride across his homeland that Che took on bicycle. I appreciated their sincerity, their curiosity, and their hospitality. They were a great audience! Another article on my visit ran in the local paper the next day and Ms. Edwards tells me that she received a number of positive comments on the visit from students, teachers, and parents. She has encouraged me to engage high school students more since they are in a position to engage their parents and communities on the issues and to help foster a stronger sense of our commonalities and histories.

The skyline of Columbia, South Carolina as I enter it from the north.
Thanks to Eden for sending me these inspirational quotes. I can only aspire to integrate such beliefs into my own spirit and frame of mind.
Lao Tzu says, "A good traveler has no fixed plans, and is not intent on arriving."
How about this, (inspired by Carlos Santana), remember that you would not have done this had you not heard your heart crying out for the freedom of it, had your ancestors not filled you with the desire and ability to live an eternity in one journey, had you not known that you are already worth more than this task, and had you not suspected somewhere inside you that the road would not break you.
Some amusing pics from a bookstore I visited....